Simple switching voltage regulator 12 volts. Simple transistor stabilizers

Simple transistor stabilizers

  The first figure shows a simple stabilizer circuit ontransistor 2SC1061 (on the left in the figure shows its pinout). At the output of the stabilizer, you can get a voltage of 12 V, but the output voltage directly depends on the stabilization voltage of the zener diode VD1. Maximum allowable load current 1A.

When using transistor 2N3055(the pinout of the transistor 2N3055 is shown on the right) the maximum allowable output current can be increased to 2A.

Figure 2 shows a simple stabilizer circuit on a 2N3055 transistor, the output voltage, as in circuit 1, depends on the voltage of the zener diode.

• 6V - output voltage, R1 \u003d 330, VD * \u003d 6.6 V
• 7.5V - output voltage, R1 \u003d 270, VD * \u003d 8.2V
• 9V - output voltage, R1 \u003d 180, Vd * \u003d 10

Scheme No. 3 - Car adapter - the battery voltage in the car is usually 12 volts. To obtain another (lower) voltage, you can use the simple circuit shown in Figure 3.

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and indeed all the LEDs, for their safe and continuous operation on the car you need to install a voltage stabilizer, you can connect it without it, but then you won’t be surprised and don’t “sin” on the tape — why do the LEDs “die” so quickly?) If a couple of LEDs are connected or a small segment of an inexpensive tape, then in case of failure, it does not cost too much, and if the diodes or tape of the premium segment are expensive, it already becomes overhead and you do not want to throw money away. The simplest and most inexpensive stabilizer can be assembled on a roll 7812 and several capacitors. The price of parts for this time is 12grv (9grv roll and 3grv capacitors) so it is better to make a stabilizer for the durability of the LEDs. This option on the roll 7812 is not adjustable and gives only 12v, the second simple option is on the roll 317, in this case it is already an adjustable stabilizer and the voltage can be adjusted using resistance. At the price of parts, the inexpensive price of kren317 is also 11grv. When assembling on these rolls, it is necessary to take into account their normal operation with a maximum load current of not more than 1.5A. If the load current they heat up more, you need to sit them on the radiators, but the work in full load will not be durable. In my case, the tape is very "gluttonous": Foton Premium Smd 5050 (60Led / m) with the parameters:
working current 1.2A / m
power consumption 14.4W / m
luminous flux 1260lm / m
With a length of 3m, 42W / 3.6A comes out. I would have to do on each ring of AG on the stabilizer and that is not a fact of normal operation without overheating. I decided to make one big stabilizer, with a margin, for the AG and the ability to connect additional products available (underbody lighting, interior lighting, engine compartment lighting, trunk light, foot light) and all that is possible to come to my head)). For the stabilizer, the following details were needed:
Roll Lm 317
Transistor CT 819 gm
470μF Capacitor
47μF Capacitor
2k impedance
180 Ohm Resistance
Cooling radiator for transistor

Assembled according to the scheme:

The manufactured stabilizer is protected for a load of up to 15A,

aG 3.6A does not heat up from the load at all and additional consumers can be connected. With an on-board voltage of 13.5-14.5v, it stably produces 12.5v. The resistance specially selected a little more for 12.5v, the manufacturer of the tape Foton indicates a voltage of 12V +/- 0.5%. If the transistor KT 819 gm is replaced by the transistor KT 827 then the total load can be increased to 20A. For installation in the car, it is necessary to make a protective case, since the radiator for cooling the transistor results in a collector (+) and no contact should be allowed on the machine to the ground. The case was made of the first one that came to hand, suitable in size, this is a plastic package from H1 lamps.

The radiator fits perfectly, it comes in tightly, to cool it, cut out the bottom and front of the window.

On top of the free space I fixed the remaining components from the circuit.

Attached a mounting bracket at the back. Since the stabilizer assembly turned out to be not miniature, so as not to interfere "by hand" and for better cooling, the installation site was found closer to the cooling cooling fan - under the battery.

At this point a very good additional blower stabilizer radiator is obtained.

However, I didn’t manage to deliver stabilizer voltage. What is it for, but simple.
So, in the vehicle’s on-board network, the working power supply is from 12.8 to 14.7 Volts (on different machines in its own way), but the LEDs are designed for 12 volts. Therefore, it is necessary to put a stabilizer, which always holds 12 volts at the output, no matter how much the car network is on board. Of course, you can connect without a stabilizer, but in this case, the LEDs will not last long due to voltage drops in the car. The physics of LEDs can be read on the Internet, the information is full!

It was possible to order with Aliexpress, but I decided to do it myself. The experience was already.
To make the stabilizer, I purchased the following components:
1. The stabilizer 2pcs.
2. Capacitor 100 uF 16V 2 pcs.
3. Capacitor 330 uF 16V 2 pcs.
Total: 70₽
Wires: I took it from the computer, since they are already insulated at the ends and are ideal for purchased stabilizers.

I chose the connection scheme (Figure 1). However, in the selected circuit, I excluded the diode, since it is needed roughly, when the voltage at the output of the stabilizer is greater than at the input! But this happens very rarely, one can say never!

Figure 1 - stabilizer circuit

Next went the soldering process. I will make a reservation right away that I am not a professional in this matter, but an amateur. Therefore, many can say that sloppy did. Excuse me))) after I soldered everything, I decided to put it in some kind of case. And then it dawned on me that the case for the stabilizers can be made from a kinder surprise, since my son has enough of this good))) I made holes on each side of the plastic egg and slipped the wires. It all looks pretty acceptable!
In the morning in the parking lot I checked the input and output voltage with a multimeter! All OK.

P.S. Dear readers, do not judge strictly for case design and soldering. The main thing is that YOU understand that in order for the LEDs on your machines to work for a long time, it is necessary to install stabilizers. Make them not difficult and not for long, the price is a penny!
In the future I want to make a stabilizer in the form of a chip!

Insulated Contacts

Made a general minus

Soldering result